Semmering Hirschenkogel

The Hirschenkogel ski resort, well known as the Zauberberg, lies on the border between Lower Austria and Styria. The Magic Mountain (which, despite first associations, has nothing to do with Thomas Mann's novel) rises near the Semmering pass, which links the two provinces, and reaches 1,340 m. How did it earn its prestigious nickname? It certainly has well-groomed pistes and beautiful views, but in Austria that is nothing new. The pistes total 14 kilometres (6.5 km each of easy and intermediate runs, 1 km of difficult piste): enough to enjoy your skiing, but hardly a record. Of course, the resort has modern lifts (a T-bar, a 4-seater chairlift and an 8-seater gondola) and everything winter holidaymakers need: a wide range of accommodation (mountain huts, hotels, guesthouses, private rooms), wellness facilities, equipment hire, ski schools and snowboard instructors. You could say: the same as everywhere else. And yet the Hirschenkogel and its surroundings are magical. The first attraction has to be the Semmering pass itself and the spectacular way it was put to use for international transport. In the mid-19th century, while preserving its natural assets, a railway line with numerous tunnels was built across it. This intervention of engineering in natural beauty gave the area a special character and certainly helped to make the region popular. Since 1998 the section of the railway that runs through here has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Today important road links also cross the pass. On the Semmering sits a village of the same name, a mountain resort famous for its clean air, with buildings scattered along a road that curves up above the railway station. So much for the nearest village. The Hirschenkogel, rising south of the pass, not only completes the picturesque scenery but has also, in some magical way, attracted event organisers and investors for years. This is where women's World Cup races are held, and where the most powerful floodlighting system in Europe makes it possible to ski at night. Almost all the pistes are floodlit, including the Split-Park for snowboarders and freestyle skiers, and an extraordinary toboggan run: along its 3 km course there are fairy-tale buildings and tunnels, and the ride comes with fantastic lighting effects and strange sounds from loudspeakers. On the way you learn the story of the wizard Siebenstein and the evil dragon with the menacing name Feuerzahn (literally fire tooth). It is not only children who have great fun on the run (!), and a ride at night makes the story even more dramatic. Conditions at the resort let you vary your winter holiday with cross-country skiing, walks on well-kept trails or snowshoe and ski touring trips. The ZauberBAR at the foot of the Hirschenkogel promises unforgettable daily après-ski: the venue has several levels, a modern yet tasteful interior and a varied music programme (including live performances).